So, here's an event that happened this morning, one of those surprises I was talking about yesterday.
My goal for breakfast was to find cafè girasol, which is the money making part of Familias Especiales Julia Biliarte, an organization that supports disabled kids and their families. I thought I'd send some dinero their way by eating some gallo pinto and cafè presto (aka beans, rice, and instant coffee). I had success, then decided to find a cybercafè nearby.
Nothing turned up. Worse, the street turned into a dead end. But as I got closer to the roundabout, it became clear I was at Matagalpa's cemetary. It's this enormous complex of spanish-influenced, colorful, above ground grave things, not really sure what they're called, up on a hill. Great views, as usual. In any case, much different than the humble graveyard where uncle Tim is currently interred.
As I take in the sights, wishing I had brought my camera, a 20-something Nicaraguan asked if I came to see the Ben Linder grave. This is where it gets cool, because I had wanted to see his grave, but didn't think I'd have time in Matagalpa to go see it. Also, it's kind of creepy to ogle someone's remains. But Linder is a special guy. He was an American hydroelectric engineer and unicycle clown who was killed by the Contra forces in 1987. In Managua, there's an organization called the Ben Linder House, which sponsers events all week long, mainly for English-speaking volunteer groups. I still need to go there. But anyway, I got to chat about cemeteries in front of a clown/engineer's dead body.
Afterwards, I took a taxi to the Rubèn Darìo park, I think with the same driver who took me there last night. Matagalpa in the morning is tranquil. The clothing stores and their super sized speakers aren't open yet, the breeze is still cool, and not all the benches at the park are taken. And of course there are plenty of cybercafès nearby.
Anyway, I hope to write again next weekend. I'll be in Estelì. My plan is to got the Heroes and Martyrs Gallery, take a yoga class, visit an organic farming collective (anyone need medicinal herbs?), tour a Cuban cigar factory (I do plan on purchasing some), and take a hike in Somoto, a nearby village with an apparently spectacular waterfall called Somoto Canyon, birthplace of Central America's largest river. I'm salivating a little.
During the week, I plan on interviewing more of the women in the cooperative, as well as trying to rustle up some people who aren't thrilled with the organization, at least for a change of pace. This Wednesday, I'm going to move in with Mayrita, the president of El Privilegio. I need to take more pictures. That will indeed happen.
Until next week then.
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2 comments:
Hi, Johanna--this is Dad. Good to hear from you again this week. I especially enjoyed the notes on your serendipitous trip to the cemetary. No, I have never heard of Ben Linder--why is he so highly regarded there, and why did the Contras kill him? I suspect it has more to do with hydroelectricity than with his unicycling skills, but with that combination of interests, he must have been a pretty amazing guy!
I have been trying to follow your journey on Google Maps, but only the bigger cities show up there, none of the villages. Still, the satellite images do show some pretty rugged topography. We are eagerly waiting for you to upload your next batch of pictures!
Thanks for the link to Envio Magazine. I read the article on the recent prohibition of therapeutic abortions and was very surprised to learn that Ortega was so subservient to the Catholic Church. He truly has dropped his former revolutionary ways. Very disappointing. It appears that women in Nicaragua have a very hard struggle ahead of them.
Yes, I'm jealous--and extremely happy that you are having this experience. Keep up the good work!
Well written article.
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